George Martin’s Strip Steak
60 River Road
Great River, NY 11739
Hours: Wednesday-Sunday. 5-9 p.m.
Reservations suggested. Private event dining is available.
“Strip Steak” is a fitting name for this particular branch of the George Martin Group family of restaurants, as it is on the bustling main strip of Great River—let’s be clear: This business strip consists of a deli, post office, and this sublime neighborhood steak house.
My dining companion that evening, Ocean Beach Village Clerk Jonneigh Adrion, grew up in Great River. She told me the story and gave me the grand tour of this handsome South Shore Long Island hamlet. Nestled between Bayard Cutting Arboretum and Connetquot River State Park to its north and Heckscher State Park to its south, this Great River is known for its old-growth trees lining the residential streets of stately homes.
The George Martin Group has six restaurants: four on Long Island, two in Maryland, with Great River being the only Suffolk County location. At the turn of the 20th century, a meeting house with a high peaked roof was constructed for public assembly. This is the space that George Martin Strip Steak now occupies.
The spacious interior had a touch of Gatsby elegance, and we were promptly led to our table. A bread & butter basket filled with rolls of a peculiar shape soon appeared on our table. This is where our dining experience began.
“They are famous for their pop-overs,” my friend explained. There were warm bread creations with mouthwatering truffle butter on the side.
Then, we were presented with extensive menus with many options, but we knew we were both going for their famous Price-Fixe deal. Served on Wednesdays and Thursdays, the price-fixe consists of a three-course meal with steak and seafood entrée options, all for a flat price of $59.95. A healthy salad, a selection of steak entrees, and a choice of potato or market vegetable accompaniment with dessert are all part of the package. Shrimp scampi or crab cakes and a $10 drink specials list are available as add-ons at a fair price.
“A Steak in the Neighborhood” is the motto of George Martin’s Strip Steak, motto, and there was no question that we were both going for George Martin’s renowned aged and seasoned beef. The question was which beef to select, for there were several options: boneless ribeye, skirt steak, and fillet mignon.
“They are known for their skirt steak,” Jonneigh said affirmatively. I guess her choice was made.
My mind, however, was caught in a gridlock. Every one of them sounded amazing. Our gracious waiter’s mention of the sliced Angus special of the day finally broke the tie for me. However, other critical decisions had to be made: our choice of side dish and, perhaps most importantly, which steak sauce to select—George Martin’s famous steaks rest in part with their signature sauces: Cognac, truffle butter, merlot demi-glace, and finally, horseradish cream, which is the one I went for. Jonneigh opted for the demi-glace.
We were not waiting long for our meals, but the pause gave me time to watch the restaurant filling with patrons. Couples and families occupied tables while friends socialized at the bar. There is no doubt that this is a beloved neighborhood location.
Then, a fragrant steak tray arrived and was presented before us. The first forkful in my mouth made me shut my eyes and slow down as I savored some of the finest beef I had ever tasted. Then I opened my eyes and noticed we both ordered seared asparagus on the side. Delicious as it was, this prompted me to hail our waiter.
“We need potatoes,” I said to him. “We can’t review your place without sampling your potatoes.”
He returned with a massive bowl of mashed potatoes, an item off their regular menu. “Family Style Sides” are just that—side dishes meant for the whole table to share. In this case, they were creamy mashed potatoes with notes of parmesan cheese.
The Price-Fixe menu also offered modest dessert choices: ice cream, banana pudding, or Tiramisu. Jonneigh got the banana pudding, which was made with fresh bananas and topped with whipped cream accented with caramel sauce. I ordered Tiramisu along with a tall Cappuccino to accompany it. While I liked my Tiramisu very much, as I wrote this review a week after that dinner at George Martin’s, I am still thinking about that smooth, frothy cup of Cappuccino.
I started following their Instagram page. Their imaginative cocktails, artful seafood dishes, and sinful desserts now beckon me to make a return trip one day soon.
