Le Dock
60 Bay Walk, Fair Harbor
631-583-5200 • ledockrestaurant.com
Le Dock is a perennial favorite for us at Fire Island News. We are invited by Michael Miller to review it frequently, with each dinner-reporter having their own viewpoint and taste. Yet I had not picked up that torch since 2019, the year Mike, with partners Lance Natsch and Russell LeScala, first took it over as owner-proprietors. Now, five summers later, I am back with the knowledge that they have become a true fixture in Fair Harbor.
There is a warmth to the place. Mike’s mother, Janet, was working the cash register to the adjoining liquor store. His son, Gavin, now in college, was our waiter for the evening with the same soft voice and handsome smile as his dad. Then there is Lance, working the crowds with his wit and charm. They know their regulars and are patient and accommodating, but quick to embrace newcomers as well.
No rainy weather that evening made it possible for me and my dining companion to opt for outdoor seating and enjoy the temperate breezes by the bay. Both of us with white wine in hand, my friend and I soon got down to the business of placing our orders.
For staters we went with the watermelon and arugula salad – still on the menu since 2019, it is evident why this light summer salad remains a favorite – garnished with goat cheese, red onion and pistachio nuts in a zinfandel vinaigrette it was as good as I remembered. We also went with the fried artichoke hearts. I had been tantalized by the sight of them on Le Dock’s Instagram feed and knew we had to try them. The fresh artichokes were lightly fried and served warm with a lemon-caper aioli dipping sauce, which was the perfect match. Enough of a lite bite to whet our appetites, but not so much as to fill us up before our main course was served.
My friend chose the ahi tuna Korean BBQ served with mango salsa, sticky coconut rice and bok choy. I went with the marinated skirt steak with garlic-parmesan mashed potatoes, grilled asparagus, and béarnaise sauce – so between us, a kind of surf and turf. Portions were generous and everything was prepared with great care. I was especially impressed with my asparagus, a vegetable I am picky about. I don’t want them mushy, nor do I want them scorched to the point that the flavor is spoiled. These spears were grilled to the right measure of tenderness without flavor or texture being sacrificed. Thank you, Chef Joe Ricci!
For dessert, we shared a serving of tiramisu – homemade tiramisu, not some concoction a jar, but the real deal made with love – need I say more?
My friend and I took our time that night, we caught up with each other and chatted with those that stopped by our table – an acquaintance, Jeff from Fair Harbor, who I have corresponded with for years online, but we had never met in person – then Mike, who had been making pizzas in the back because he was shorthanded that night, but came by to catch up with us. He got his start with us in Ocean Beach after all and misses the familiar faces, but likes his new life on Fire Island’s west end.
“I live in Lonelyville now and enjoy the peace,” he said.
We chatted about the past five years. Only in operation a single summer before the pandemic lockdowns happened was a test many Long Island dining establishments could not survive, but Mike’s skill at running his Ristorante and Pizzeria for so many years in OB made him very comfortable with takeout. Then we talked about Le Dock’s septic system. When I interviewed him in 2019, he was adamant about making true improvements over band-aid fixes.
“All done this winter,” he said emphatically. “It cost crazy money, but it’s finished and people are not noticing, which means that it was done right.”
We also talked about all the amenities Le Dock offers both as a dining destination on Fire Island as well as a neighborhood gathering place. Weeknight specials include Mexican Night on Tuesday evenings and Lobster Dinner on Wednesday nights. Entertainment is offered with Jackson’s Trivia Night, now on Monday evening, beginning at 8 p.m. with no cover charge; as well as live music every Thursday evening and weekends.
“Don’t forget to mention that the return water taxi trip is on us,” added Mike.
Good point Mike. Fire Island Water Taxi will take care of the return trip back to your Fire Island community, from Fire Island Pines through Ocean Beach, from Sunday to Friday evenings with presentation of your dining receipt, which is a significant savings for what promises to be an enjoyable night out for couples and families alike.
Le Dock also offers catering service from Ocean Bay Park to Kismet.
Restaurant Summer Hours: Sunday, brunch with live music 11 a.m.-2 p.m./ dinner served 5- 9 p.m.; Monday-Thursday, 5-9 p.m.; Friday, 5 p.m.-late night; Saturday, lunch, 11 a.m.-2 p.m./dinner 5 p.m.- late night.
The Pizzeria @ Le Dock, open daily, 631-583-5397.
Fair Harbor Liquors @ Le Dock 631-583-5980.
