FOOD & BEVERAGE: “Double Duty: Schooner Inn & The Dunes”

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Schooner Inn, the only establishment on Fire Island with a private beach.
Photo by Joey Macellaro.

Many Fire Islanders are familiar with the Schooner Inn, a longtime favorite dining and drinking spot on the bay in Ocean Bay Park. Some may be unaware that The Dunes, a new hotspot on Bay Walk in Ocean Beach, has the same owner. The restaurant opened in May on the first floor of the Blue Waters Hotel on the corner of Bayberry Walk. The Dunes’ deck overlooks the ferry basin in the heart of town.

“Inspiration for The Dunes comes from my passion to please people,” said owner Paul Mohring. “I wanted to bring an elevated experience for locals and tourists alike – a casual place to eat, drink, play darts, and enjoy great music.” He added that while the Schooner Inn is a truly laid-back, no-shoes-required beach bar –the only establishment on Fire Island with its own private beach – he was going for something more refined with his new spot.

“We have three amazing chefs with 75 years of combined experience,” said Mohring. Chef Faz, formerly of Bocce Beach, joins executive chefs Ben and Bobby from Cape Cod, Mass. “They each bring their unique flair to the kitchen for a combined triple threat.” Darren DePass, manager at Schooner’s, partnered with Mohring to bring their Ocean Beach location to fruition.

My first few visits to The Dunes were for their late-night menu, which was served most nights until 1 a.m. Their disco fries, seasoned curly potatoes with melted mozzarella and gravy, have become a favorite. And nowhere else in town can you order a cheeseburger deluxe well after midnight.

I recently visited with a friend for dinner at The Dunes for the first time. We started with the shell sampler, an impressive spread of clam’s casino, baked clams, oysters Rockefeller, and charbroiled oysters. The oysters Rockefeller were my favorite of the mix. The first cocktail of the evening was a refreshing 21Seed jalapeño Paloma mixed perfectly on a hot evening.

I tried the 16-ounce bone-in cowboy ribeye with herb butter for our next course. Served with asparagus, glazed carrots, and gruyere mashed potatoes, the steak was a tender, juicy delight and highly recommended. The potatoes attracted my friend’s attention, and we both shared dishes. His thick, flavorful grilled salmon steak with Dijon glaze was among the best I’ve tried in recent memory, complimented by seasoned skin-on fingerling potatoes that were just the right level of melt-in-your-mouth on the inside and crisp on the outside. Filet mignon, prime rib, lobster, scallops, fish and chips, burgers, and salads are also offered. With my entrée, I enjoyed a coconut martini, which my friend loved even more than I did.

I was almost too full for dessert, but we could barely finish an order of warm cinnamon doughnuts with chocolate and vanilla dipping sauces.

We also stopped by Schooner’s for a bite to eat. We started with sesame-crusted tuna tataki, served with sliced avocado and a ginger garnish. Fire Island tends to lack Asian-inspired faire, and this appetizer was light and flavorful and satisfied my cravings. In our first course, we thoroughly enjoyed Schooner’s famous baked clams.

Next, we enjoyed soft-shelled tacos with beer-battered fish, mango salsa, lettuce, spicy aioli, chips, and guacamole – among the best we’ve had on the beach. The hands-down best part of the meal was the lobster roll, overflowing with fresh, cold lobster salad for a surprisingly reasonable price. We’re glad we subbed sweet potato wedges for traditional fries; they were delicious. When I thought I couldn’t eat another bite, I couldn’t keep munching on the last of the wedges. A sumptuous mudslide complimented the meal – my friend’s favorite – and a spicy jalapeño margarita, which I promptly finished.

The Schooner Inn is well known for its live music on the deck overlooking the Bay, and The Dunes also regularly features live music. Reservations are available by calling (631) 583-0180 for The Dunes and (631) 583-8498 for Schooner’s.

Schooner Inn’s famous lobster roll with sweet potato fries.Photo by Joey Macellaro.
Cocktails at The Dunes.Photo by Joey Macellaro.
The Dunes’ impressive shellfish sampler.Photo by Joey Macellaro.
For meat lovers, The Dines’ mouth-watering 16-ounce bone-in cowboy ribeye with herb butter with asparagus, glazed carrots, and gruyere mashed potatoes.Photo by Joey Macellaro.